The truth about fuel efficiency!

You've heard a million different ways to up the mileage you get out of one tank of gas; but do you know how much of it is true?

Small cars are the only fuel efficient cars:

 
Nowadays, car manufacturers are making larger cars to be as fuel efficient as small cars. While this typically is limited to sedans right now, the manufacturers are working on more options! There is new technology that allows this, such as diesel engines, hybrids, partial electric cars, turbochargers, etc. they all make for a smoother more efficient ride! 
 

Manual transmissions are more fuel efficient than automatic:

 
Automatic engines these days may have more gears than the manual transmissions, which makes it better for highway driving. But for older cars, a manual will usually be better for gas.

For city driving, the manual transmissions generally still rank better on gas mileage. But for highway driving, the automatics are usually the same or even better.

 

Replacing your air filter will help on fuel efficiency:

 

On modern cars this doesn't ring true anymore. However, this will help with any car that has a carburetor. The fuel injection systems allow for better emission control and better gas usage. This does so by using less fuel than before to power the car, so it doesn't get thrown off by a dirty air filter. The engine's technology maintains and corrects the air and gas mixture used to drive on its own. But a dirty air filter may affect how your car performs, so it does need to be changed at times.

It also allows the car to need less time to 'warm up' before driving in colder weather. Which leads us to our next point...

 

 

 Starting your car uses more fuel than idling:  

 

Modern cars are made to only need about 30 seconds to warm up for driving in cold weather, as opposed to the 5-10 minutes thought before. So the old way of letting the car sit and warm is not necessary anymore. Unless it is for ice, snow or comfort.

There is now "stop-start" technology, common in hybrids, which helps with idling at red lights. It turns the car off after a certain time and then can be restarted by pressing on the gas pedal. It uses  gas wisely and efficiently. However, manually shutting off and restarting the car at stops can be a hazard.

Idling just wastes gas, so it is better to turn the car off if you need to wait in the car. 

 

Using a better quality gas will save on mileage:

 

Using any other quality of gas than your car needs really doesn't help the car at all. There isn't even a noticeable difference with saving gas; just in your wallet. It's best to use the gas your car manual says.

 

 

Having properly inflated tires helps with gas efficiency:

This is absolutely true. And not only does it help you get more mileage out of your tank, but it greatly helps with traction. Additionally, check the tire pressure with a gauge to avoid over inflation, which can cause damage to the tires and less traction. Your car manual can tell you the correct pressure needed 

 Using the air conditioner eats the gas:

While driving on the highway, using the air conditioner and having the windows open had the same effect on the gas tank. Having the windows open on the highway will create a bigger drag and slow the car a bit. However, while city driving the air conditioner might not be your best bet. It does use a lot of energy to get and maintain the temperature. So if you are going to use the air, it is best to either use it at speeds above 50 MPH or just use the fans once the car is cooled inside.

Keeping the tailgate down on a pickup is good for gas savings:

 

By doing this, it will actually use more gas than having the tailgate attached normally. When the tailgate is up there is a sort of bubble created to let the air flow over the pick up bed. But when it's down, there is a drag created. If you are especially concerned, and not convinced, with this a mesh tailgate will help.

Driving while angry uses more gas:

This is surprisingly true. Driving while angry can cause the driver to use about 50% more gas than a stress free relaxed person. So calm down before getting behind the wheel, for the gas tank's sake and your own.

Gas additives and fuel saving gadgets

Myth: Advertisements for products promising to reduce gas mileage are everywhere. One of the most commonly used ones is acetone, the chemical found in nail polish remover. Some people claim it helps them save gas.
Fact: The EPA has tested hundreds of products over the years that promise to raise fuel efficiency and hasn't found one that has made a significant difference. Acetone, in particular, is corrosive and can damage your fuel system.
- See more at: http://www.boston.com/cars/gallery/fuel_saving_myths_and_facts?pg=8#sthash.SPbQDTrC.dpuf

 

 

Busy holiday driving tips!

The holidays can be a very stressful time, imagine adding an accident in the middle of shopping on top of that. Here's a few tips on how to avoid a mid-errand fender bender.

During the season, people can be very impatient to get everything done on time. This can lead them to look through receipts while driving in parking lots, become drowsy at the wheel, check on coupons, map out the next store and just rush around. The best tip is to always drive for the other person: be very aware of your driving, as well as what others are doing or might do soon.

Drive slowly to give yourself enough time to react to a possible accident, especially when the ground is wet or snowy. The average adult can run about 6-11 MPH, imagine running that fast into a brick wall. It would definitely cause some damage. Just because parking lots and traffic areas are for slow driving, doesn't mean you can't cause serious damage to vehicles or people.

Also, be aware of speeding cars rushing around and cutting through parking lots and spots. It helps to not fight over parking spaces with other shoppers, too. This could lead to an accident, fight or vandalism of your car. The mall and shopping centers are a very popular area for young and inexperienced drivers. However, people may also try to be courteous and "wave you on" into traffic. Make sure it is entirely clear before exiting a lot or wait until the traffic has cleared. 

Additionally, be sure to take care of yourself as a pedestrian. Lock your doors after you get into your car, be wary of people who may be after your items and always check the car before getting into it. There is a surprising number of people who get robbed and/or kidnapped in parking lots, day or night. Parking in a well lit, possible security camera, area can ward off possible thieves, as well as hit and run accidents.

Make sure your mirrors are set for optimal visibility and your turn signals are always being used while turning. The holiday season is when it is dark, wet and cold most; so be aware of pedestrians, especially with small children. The kids might be very excited and sprint from adults they're with. Pedestrians have the right away!

Make sure all windows are clear!

Back up sensors aide with blind spots.

Try to avoid backing out of a spot whenever possible, it's best to be able to pull through. But, if you must back out of a spot, take care to look for those small children. If you feel unsure about backing out, try back up sensors for you car with possible camera attachment! Make sure all windows are clear before driving!

 

Add caption

 If you stick to the rules of the road and give a little extra time and patience during this season, you should have a less stressful holiday shopping experience! Remember, it's better to be late than dead.

Do you know how your car is keeping you safe?

People are often confused by ABS and SRS; two sensors located on the dashboard. Both are key in aiding against injuries in accidents.

 

ABS: Anti-lock Braking System. This lets the brakes keep traction on the road and preventing 'lock-up' while trying to come to a quick stop.

SRS: Supplemental Restraint System. This is the passive (airbags) and active(seat belts)

 restraint systems your car offers.

Seat belt Restraints:

Seat belts are designed to keep the occupants restrained in the seat to reduce injury from minor incidents to large accidents. It is especially useful to keep the occupants from flying out of the car or smashing their heads on the interior during serious accidents. When the vehicle senses a hard stop, the buckle or belt will pull tight to keep the occupants stable. 

Just wearing your seat belt properly can reduce injuries by half. It is extremely important to wear your seat belt properly, not just half. Using it improperly can damage the occupants more than help them. Using the full 3 point harness belt will reduce the risk of paralysis by only using the lap part or sliding under the seat belt by only using the sash part.

Seat belt indicator light on dash

Studies have shown that since states have started implementing the seat belt law, more people have been wearing theirs for fear of a ticket. The seat belt indicator 'beep' also aides in the use of wearing one. However, in the span of a 26 year study, the NHTSA (Nation Highway Traffic Safety Association) has estimated that over 145,000 lives have been saved by wearing seat belts. They also found that by not wearing a seat belt in accidents, the risk of getting inured was about 50% more than not wearing one. On average, about 8,000 more lives can be saved by wearing a seat belt.

Airbags: 

Airbags are designed to keep the occupants safe and in a position which will lessen bodily injuries. However, they are meant for occupants over the age of 13. If under this age, the front seat airbags can prove more harmful, even fatal. But with the new technology to determine the size and weight of the occupant in the car it may not be as harmful or even inflate at all if a child is in the front seat. They can only deflate one time though, so they may not be able to protect from a second collision in the same accident. 

Signal showing the passenger
airbag is off.

There is an airbag control unit (ACU) that measures force in milliseconds by impact and speed. They specifically take wheel speed, brake pressures, seat and door sensors, impact and acceleration into consideration before deploying. 

The NHTSA (Nation Highway Traffic Safety Association) has estimated that over 8,000 lives have been saved from airbags in a span of a 14 year study.

Front (for driver and passenger): These are located in the dashboard and steering wheel. Frontal airbags are designed to inflate and deflate quickly in case the driver needs to regain control of the car. This process is usually done in 40 milliseconds or .04 seconds.

Knee Bolster: This airbag is located directly under the steering wheel and dashboard. They are made to protect the knees from damage in an accident.

Side/Bolster & Curtain: Side airbags are located in the seats and the curtain airbags are located above the window glass. They inflate and stay inflated to keep the driver/passengers in the car, especially when the car rolls. The are specifically helpful to reduce injuries on the head and brain.

Now, you know the difference between SRS and ABS and how your car is working to keep you safe. ALWAYS remember to wear your seat belt properly, it saves lives!!

Why rental car coverage is important!

Have you ever gotten your car towed after an accident and were left there wondering how you were going to get to work for the next couple weeks? 

You wouldn't have to if you had rental car coverage on your car insurance policy!

Why purchasing rental reimbursement is worth it: You won't have to worry about getting rides to work, daily activities, emergencies and so on. Just because your car is out of commission, does not mean you have to be as well.

Costs about 30$ a year: The policies generally cover about 30$ a day for 30 days. Can be longer, shorter, more or less money depending on your policy. Compare that about 30$ a year to about 400$ for a few weeks of a rental. It just makes sense to have it. The rental car companies usually give you a car close to what you currently drive for ease. This, however, can only be used with auto claim through your insurance carrier. Maintenance, leisure and minor repairs do not apply. This is also a great to have if you need to buy a new car after your car is totaled.

Additional costs: If you decide to go to a rental place that is not affiliated with your insurance carrier, you may to have to pay out of pocket and submit the receipts afterward. This can take some time to get your money back. If you do go with an affiliated company, the insurance carrier may even do all the hard work for you and set up payment and a reservation. Sometimes, though, will have to put a security hold on your car, but that will be returned after the vehicle is returned.

The rental company will most likely try to sell you a damage waiver or temporary insurance for the rental. You do not need these when you rent; your current policy will cover it. If you do decide to purchase the additional coverage, that is an out of pocket expense. 

When to get the rental: If you car is safe to drive and the repairs can wait for a better time, then don't get your rental right away. There is no point in using the coverage unnecessarily. But, if you car is unsafe to drive, it is best to get the rental as soon as possible!

How to tell if your car is unsafe to drive: If you were to be pulled over by a police officer and they would be able to write you a ticket: Damaged headlights, parts falling off the car, windshield is cracking or broken, missing bumpers and so on. Also, if you notice the doors or hood will not open and clearly if the wheels are damaged. If any of these are present after an accident, GET YOUR RENTAL CAR ASAP!

Car insurance companies do not push this extra for you policy as it doesn't make them money. But once you need it the rental, you cant add it. Using it for just one day pays to have it. If there is an extra vehicle at the house, then it may not be necessary.

Typical Auto Repair Process

Did you ever wonder what happens between the time you get into an accident and when it is returned to you?

Let Medford Auto Body help!

Estimate- The car can be brought to an auto body repair shop or be done wherever the car is (usually just for insurance adjuster estimates). A visual assessment is done of the outer damage. If there is internal damage, that will be seen during the breakdown. The person writing the estimate will go through and write up any damage using a computerized system, to ensure it is done as quickly as possible.

The process is reviewed with the customer and given an estimated time to repair. If the car is not able to be driven, this might be a good time to get your rental car.


Insurance company reviews estimate- The insurance company's claims department will go through and review the estimate. Sometimes the estimate is changed or the car is totaled. When the insurance company okays the repair, the parts may be ordered and the repairs can start. Sometimes this does take a little longer than usual.

Breakdown

Breakdown and supplements- The car is then taken apart where the damage is to see if there is an underlying issue. If so, the auto repair shop will send in a supplement for repairs; which is basically an additional estimate for the same repair. The insurance company will then send out the adjuster to review it. Sometimes this may come later on through the repair process and can add time to the original estimate.




Parts ordered and checked for accuracy- The parts are ordered either through a manufacturer, an after market company or a salvage yard. You can check out the types of car parts here.
Depending on the car, parts are usually readily available and are delivered quickly. However, there are some cars that have parts are not easy to come by, so it may take longer to receive them. If the car was able to be driven, now is the time to bring your car in to start the repair process.

Frame machine

Structure repair (Frame machine)- The car's structure gets fixed back to factory standards. There is a precise measurement system to ensure quality and stability. Your car may be put onto a frame machine, which pulls the car back to the original shape. 

Body filler on truck

Body work-  The technician will replace parts, if needed, or repair the damaged area. Body filler is used to smooth out any small dents or scratches. A measurement system is used to make sure all the repaired or new parts match up and the gaps are correct. Welding may be involved in this step. 

 

Outside paint booth

Inside paint booth

Prime, paint and seal- The painter will prep the area for paint by wet sanding to ensure the new paint sticks and seals to the parts. The car is taped off, if the whole car is being painted, or the single part is brought into the booth. Everything gets primed, painted and sealed with a clear coat and sometimes a rust inhibitor. The car paint is cured in the booth so no foreign objects or debris mess up the paint.

Spraying a car

Paint tints

There are specific paint codes for each car, so they match, using a computerized mixing system. However, if the car has been through a lot of wear and tear or is older, the paint may look too new. That is why some parts close to the damaged area are blended to a smooth cohesive finish. Blending is a process where the adjacent car part is partially painted with the new paint so the eye cannot tell where the old paint ends and the new paint starts. 

Assembly/Detailing- The car is then put back together; all the small parts, details and moldings. The car is checked for all working parts and is sometimes test driven.

Then the car gets cleaned off, washed up and, if it was a long repair, the inside gets vacuumed and given a minor detail. This is done right before the customer picks up.



Return to customer- The technician will go through the repairs on the car with the customer and assure it is the way it was pre-accident. The customer will receive a copy of the final estimate, make payment and enjoy their newly repaired vehicle.

At Medford Auto Body we ensure all repairs for a lifetime guarantee.

Affordable upgrades!

Do you wish there were visual upgrades available for your car that won't break the bank?

 

 Medford Auto Body can help!

 

Back up sensors/back up cameras:
Medford Auto Body can have sensors purchased and installed for 200$, add a camera for 300$ total.


Cameras and sensors are a great tool to have for your vehicle, as they help to avoid accidents especially in parking lots and homes with small children and pets. Studies have shown that the sensors and cameras are best for larger vehicles, trucks and SUVs. Generally, the larger the car, the more blind spots available. But these sensors are great for any size vehicle!
 

Sensors on bumper

View on mirror

 There are four small round sensors that attach to your bumper and are wired into the car. The display camera is either a clip on rear view mirror, that is placed on your previous mirror seamlessly; a dash mounted camera or hooked directly to the screen in
your display system. All of these
options turn the display camera on
automatically when the car is in reverse. The camera in the rear of the car is attached near the bumper or license plate. While using the sensors, the closer you get to an object/person, the louder and longer it will beep.

Although this is an effective way to avoid accidents while backing up, these sensors and cameras can have blind spots too. Make sure to always check your surroundings especially in bad weather and at night.

Spoilers (lip, front and wing):
Medford Auto Body can have the spoiler painted and installed for about 50$-250$. Not including the price of the spoiler you choose.

  

Spoilers are great for many reasons, aside from just the cosmetics. They increase fuel efficiency, aide in braking, make your car easier to see and reduce the weight while drag racing.

Wing spoiler custom painted

Lip spoilers are smaller, subtle and slightly sporty looking. They are usually placed on the trunk lid, but can be placed beneath the grill on the front of the car. The front spoilers, or air dams, can alleviate the drag, or slow down, produced by the rear spoilers. 

Wing spoilers are larger, sportier and more effective in drag racing or fast cars. They are more effective for racing, as they improve the traction, without added weight.

Hood scoops:
Medford Auto Body can have the hood scoop painted and installed for about 50$-250$. Not including the price of the hood scoop you choose.

Side scoop in front

Side scoop in back

Hood scoops allow direct air flow to the engine, which feeds the engine cold and dense air to give it more power. There are a few different types of scoops, but they all are used to increase performance in the engine. At faster speeds, you can feel more of a supercharged effect. However,
some hood scoops are solely cosmetic.

Scoops can be located on the hood of the car, as a single piece or be attached later on. Side scoops are also available with the same function. They are located on the sides of your car near the doors.




Stereo upgrades:
Medford Auto Body can purchase and install a new stereo equipped with a CD player and smartphone hook up for as low as 150$. Other upgrades and pricing may be discussed.

There are many upgrades available to make your sound system sound just the way you want it. You can go with new speakers for a reasonable upgrade, either in the front, the rear or different types of woofers in the truck. Many types of speakers can be purchased depending on the type of sound you're looking for: bass, mid range, higher pitched, or amps for louder music without distortion.

Or you could go ahead and replace the entire head unit; that way you can completely customize the sound you want. This can be somewhat timely and costly, but it less expensive than it used to be. A new head unit can be hooked up to your phone, using blue tooth or AUX. Your phone can even control your car radio, as well as your radio can take your calls for hands free driving.


New headlight bulbs:
Medford Auto Body can purchase and install high quality halogen bulbs for as low as 20$ a headlight. HID conversion kits start at 150$. 

HID conversion kit

There are two types of bulbs you can switch to for better visibility while lasting longer than a normal bulb. Halogen bulbs, very common,  produce more light using Halogen gas and a filament. They don't burn out as fast as a normal bulb.

HID bulbs, also known as Xenon, have no filament and last 90% longer than Halogen and regular bulbs. They are filled with Xenon gas and produce a light twice as bright as the others. However, these usually require a conversion kit to use. But they come in a few different tints, just to customize it a bit more.



Chrome grill replacement:
Medford Auto Body can purchase and install chrome grills for as low as 150$.

These snap on grills get installed right over your existiing grill, making it a quick and easy upgrade. They are chrome grills designed specifically for your car, so the fit will always be right. You can buy after market or OEM. They add a nice visual touch!



Pinstripes:
Medford Auto Body can install pinstripes right over your paint job in any color for 30$.

Custom pinstripes

Are your pinstripes fading or cracking? Let Medford Auto Body fix them up for you! We can repair existing or faded pinstripes, match colors, or start fresh with any color of your choosing.

Tape on pinstripes are a quicker, easier, yet just as lasting as paint on pinstripes. They can take a fraction of the time and cost. All we need to do is make sure the area is free of debris or wax and get started. About an hour later, the car is ready to go.

DIY car maintencance and minor repairs!

We've all been there...Your tire goes flat, your car overheats, the battery dies in a parking lot, something just got on your windshield and you cant see, you find out that your headlight is out....

Here are some basic repairs and preventative maintenance to avoid all of those mishaps that always turn out to happen at the worst time.

Cleaning the car battery

Using a wire brush on the battery posts

This task will take about 20 minutes, cost about $5 and require a few small tools (wrenches, a wire brush, some rags and corrosion removal fluid). Make sure the car is off and not hot. After disconnecting the battery, your radio may need to be reset with a dealers code. The manual will tell you.

Corrosion on battery

Keeping the car battery clean is essential for a smooth running car that starts every time. The cleaning can be checked/done every few months. If your battery has a white residue on it and the battery posts here's what to do:

First, open the hood and secure with the hood prop. then remove the battery terminals, they are the on the positive and negative cables connecting your battery to your car. They may stick, but you can lightly pry them off with a flat head screw driver. Now you can clean the battery posts. You can purchase a cleaner from an auto store or mix up some baking soda and water. Put the cleaner on the posts and scrub with your brush until free of residue. Rinse with water, dry them and put the battery back together.

Jumping your battery

You can either do this with a 'jump box' or by using another person's car battery.

Using a jump box: (This needs to be charged and ready to go at a moments notice). These are especially handy when there is no one around to help you. Keep this in the trunk of your car for emergencies. Make sure the area is clear of liquid or clear damage, if these are present, it is best to get a tow.


First, open your hood and secure it with the hood prop. Then, with the jump box off, take the red clamp (positive) to the red post on your battery. The black clamp (negative) to a clean piece of metal in your car (ground) or the black post on your battery. Do not let the clamps touch. Make sure the jumper cables are clear of any moving parts in the engine; turn the jump box on. Now, try to to turn the car on. If it starts, remove the black (negative) clamp, then the red (positive). Release the hood prop and close the hood.

If it does not start, turn the jump box off and re-position the cables until you have success. The jump box may need some resting time in between. If the car will not start after a couple attempts, it is time to call for help.


Using another car battery: This is the most common way to restart your battery. You or the person helping will need to have jumper cables handy. Keep these in the trunk of your car. Make sure the area is clear of liquid or clear damage., if these are present, it is best to get a tow.


Find someone that can assist you first. Have that person position their car so your hoods are facing each other without touching. Make sure their car is turned off. Then take the red clamp (positive) to the red post on your dead battery and the other end to their good positive battery post. Then, take black clamp (negative) to  a clean piece of metal in your car (ground) or the black post on your battery. Now attach the black clamp to their good negative post on the battery. Do not let the clamps touch. Turn their car on and rev the engine a little. Try to start your car now. If it starts, remove the black clamps (negative), then the red clamps (positive). Release the hood prop and close the hood.

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Locate the battery. Some car batteries are not in the motor cavity. In these cases you're going to be looking for a red plastic cylindrical cap with a large + sign on it. This is a jump post for the battery. These jump posts can be in a variety of locations depending on the make and model of your vehicle, but most manufacturers place them in conspicuous places for occasions such as this. If all else fails, refer to your owner manual.

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Locate the battery. Some car batteries are not in the motor cavity. In these cases you're going to be looking for a red plastic cylindrical cap with a large + sign on it. This is a jump post for the battery. These jump posts can be in a variety of locations depending on the make and model of your vehicle, but most manufacturers place them in conspicuous places for occasions such as this. If all else fails, refer to your owner manual.

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

If it does not start, turn their car off and re-position the cables until you have success. If the car will not start after a couple attempts, it is time to call for help.

DO NOT SHUT OFF YOUR CAR RIGHT AFTER YOU GET YOUR BATTERY JUMPED. It does not have enough charge to restart the car. If you have to, drive around for about 20 minutes before turning it off. 

Checking and filling fluids 

Fluids should generally be checked when the car/engine is not hot. First, open your hood and secure it with the hood prop. When finished checking your fluids, close your hood carefully.

Washer fluid tank cap

Washer fluid: (about $4) This is used to clean the windshield of any debris/smudges that may affect driving. Make sure it is alcohol based, especially in the winter, so it works correctly and doesn't freeze and break the tank. The tank is usually white with a windshield/water symbol on top of the cap. There may be another tank for a rear wiper. You can easily see into the tank; check for blue liquid. If it is low, carefully pour the new fluid into the tank and close it.

Antifreeze tank

Antifreeze: (about $14) This is used to regulate the temperature in your cooling/heating system. The container is white and usually has a cap that says coolant or engine coolant on it. There is also a MAX and MIN line to look for. You can use water in a pinch, but just like washer fluid tanks, you don't want them to freeze in the winter. Add the appropriate amount carefully and close it.


Checking oil: (about $10) There is a dipstick that is usually brightly colored and may sometimes have a handle. It might have a picture of an oil can (like the light in your car). Make sure it does not say Transmission Oil. Pull the dipstick out and wipe the whole stick on a clean towel or paper towel and replace it. Take the stick out again and look at the markings, high or low. Keep an eye on the color too. If it is an amber clear color, this is healthy oil. If it is darker brown or black, you will need an oil change soon. If the oil is very low, you may need to top off the oil. Find what type you need in the manual or in stores. (There is usually a book). If the oil comes out with any coloring other than a transparent one, take it to a shop.

Checking brake fluid: (about $5) This is used to keep the brake system working smoothly. The tank is white; the cap has a yellow octagon with a circle and two lines around it, some may say brake fluid. There are also a MAX/MIN lines on the tank. If the fluid is low, top it off with the appropriate brake fluid. If you notice a significant amount of loss, there may be a leak. Take it to a shop to sort it out.

 

Tire maintenance

It is important to have a good tread on your tire to maintain traction on the road. If the tread is balding, or getting close to the indicators on the tire, it is time to replace the tire(s). This is especially important for driving in the rain, on wet leaves and in the snow.

You will also want to make sure your spare tire is properly inflated. You don't want to find out the hard way. The spare tire is generally located in the trunk under the trunk mat, on the back door or under the back of the car. Also make sure the fully functional jack is in place with it. Your manual will have the location and parts associated with it.

It is very important to check the tire pressure on all tires. This can help with gas mileage and to avoid a flat. You can find how much pressure you need in the tire on the sidewall of the tire, close to the rim. It can be listed on a sticker in your door jam or the manual as well. Always check before inflating your tires. A spare tire may require more air pressure than a normal tire; the average PSI (pounds per square inch) is between 28 and 32 pounds. A tire pressure gauge will be able to measure this for you. They run around $10 and can be found at an auto store.

To put air in the tires, take the valve stem cap off and check with the tire gauge. The number you see is what the PSI is now. Attach the air pump to the valve stem and push the air in in spurts. Keep checking the PSI on your gauge, so you don't over inflate. If you happen to over inflate, take something like a pen and push in the valve stem until some air comes out.

Replacing a tire

First you will need to turn off your car and make sure it is in park on a flat surface. Try to stay out of the way of traffic and put your hazards on. Then locate your spare tire and jack. Now you will need to loosen the lug nuts, by turning clockwise, with the tire iron (generally a cross shape). Keep them on the wheel until the car is jacked up. 

The manual will be able to tell you where to place the jack under the car to ensure safety. Placing it in the wrong location can cause damage to your car, yourself and anyone involved. 

Jack the car up slowly until the tire is clear of the ground. Finish removing the lug nuts and place them in safe location. Pull the tire off and replace with the spare. Make sure the tire is all lined up with where the lug nuts go and put the lug nuts on. Tighten them with the tire iron until the wheel is snug, but functional. Lower the jack now and triple check the tightness of the lug nuts. You don;'t want your wheel to fall off! Remember to drive carefully with the spare tire and get a new tire ASAP.

Replacing wiper blades


You will want to make sure the wipers have no dry rotting or malfunctions. This can easily be checked the next time you use your wiper blades. If the wipers aren't flush with the windshield or there are signs of malfunction, then it's time to switch them out.

When you go to the store to buy wiper blades, there is usually a book explaining the size(s) you need for your type of vehicle. Buy whichever wipers you find suitable.

To start, you will need to put your mounts in a fixed position (much like when it is about to snow) and pull the old wipers off. There is usually a tab on the underside of the wiper, push that in to pull them off. Get the new wipers, find the ends that line up and place them on in the same fashion that you took them off. Make sure it is secured, straight and tight. Lower them carefully back on the windshield. It may be easier to find a video or the diagram on the packaging to aide you.



Cleaning auto glass
 Keeping your auto glass clean, windows and windshields, is important to keeping clear visibility. It is best not to use a trigger spray, as they streak too much. Foam cleaners and microfiber cloths work best for a streak free clean. You can do both inside and outside windows with this method.



Changing an air filter


You only need a new air filter (about $10), a couple tools and 10 minutes to swap this out. You will want to change this out about every year or 12-25,000 miles. Having a clean air filter helps with gas mileage and engine performance. Having dust and debris in your engine is not optimal. Your manual will be able to tell you the type you need. You can always spray some compressed air into the filter to extend the life of it.

 Start with a cooled down car, then open the hood and secure with the hood prop. Look to the top of the engine, it is usually enclosed in a large plastic box and has some metal clips. Use a flat head screw driver or a butter knife to pop them off carefully, then unscrew any screws. Make a note of which way the filter is set in the casing and remove. Place the new one in exactly as the old filter was, screw the top back on and place the metal clips back. If the housing is visibly dirty, you can wipe it out.



Changing light bulbs

This is for inside lights and headlights. Your manual will tell you what type of bulbs you need for both

Headlights: Start with a cooled down car, pop the hood and secure with the hood prop. Locate the correct headlight and find the back of it. There will be a plug with three wires coming out. Carefully pull the clip, unscrew or carefully push the catch (depending on your type of car). Remove the old bulb and replace the new one. Try not to touch the new bulbs glass. Replace the wiring the same way you took it out and test the headlights. If the headlight is still out, you may have a separate electrical issue that a shop can help you with.

Inside lights: The housing for the lights are located on the ceiling of the car and/or the door edges. There are snap on types that can be taken out with a flat head screw driver or screw types that require a screw driver. Remove the old bulb and replace with the new one, try not to touch the light bulbs with bare hands. Replace the housing the same way you took it off and check if it works. If the light is still out, you may have a separate electrical issue that a shop can help you with.

 These are recommendations for car maintenance. Caring for any vehicle can always cause harm to yourself, the car or others. Take precautions and always use safety. If you ever feel uncomfortable, it is best to take it to a shop or a trusted mechanic.

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