Back to school car maintenance!

Back to School Car Maintenance

There is so much to get ready for when your kids are going back to school, but did you think about what you should be getting ready for your car or your new college bound kid’s car? Let Medford Auto Body help you out! 

First, start with the battery, by testing the battery, learning how to jump it and replacing it:

Cleaning the battery: This task will take about 20 minutes and require a few small tools (wrenches, a wire brush, some rags and corrosion removal fluid). Make sure the car is off and not hot. After disconnecting the battery, your radio may need to be reset with a dealers code. The manual will tell you. 

Keeping the car battery clean is essential for a smooth running car that starts every time. The cleaning can be checked/done every few months. If your battery has a white residue on it and the battery posts here's what to do:

First, open the hood and secure with the hood prop. then remove the battery terminals, they are the on the positive and negative cables connecting your battery to your car. They may stick, but you can lightly pry them off with a flat head screw driver. Now you can clean the battery posts. You can purchase a cleaner from an auto store or mix up some baking soda and water. Put the cleaner on the posts and scrub with your brush until free of residue. Rinse with water, dry them and put the battery back together.

Jumping your battery: You can either do this with a 'jump box' or by using another person's car battery.

Using a jump box: (This needs to be charged and ready to go at a moments notice). These are especially handy when there is no one around to help you. Keep this in the trunk of your car for emergencies. Make sure the area is clear of liquid or clear damage, if these are present, it is best to get a tow.

First, open your hood and secure it with the hood prop. Then, with the jump box off, take the red clamp (positive) to the red post on your battery. The black clamp (negative) to a clean piece of metal in your car (ground) or the black post on your battery. Do not let the clamps touch. Make sure the jumper cables are clear of any moving parts in the engine; turn the jump box on. Now, try to to turn the car on. If it starts, remove the black (negative) clamp, then the red(positive). Release the hood prop and close the hood. 

If it does not start, turn the jump box off and re-position the cables until you have success. The jump box may need some resting time in between. If the car will not start after a couple attempts, it is time to call for help.

Using another car battery: This is the most common way to restart your battery. You or the person helping will need to have jumper cables handy. Keep these in the trunk of your car. Make sure the area is clear of liquid or clear damage., if these are present, it is best to get a tow.

Find someone that can assist you first. Have that person position their car so your hoods are facing each other without touching. Make sure their car is turned off. Then take the red clamp(positive) to the red post on your dead battery and the other end to their good positive battery post. Then, take black clamp (negative) to  a clean piece of metal in your car (ground) or the black post on your battery. Now attach the black clamp to their good negative post on the battery.Do not let the clamps touch. Turn their car on and rev the engine a little. Try to start your car now. If it starts, remove the black clamps (negative), then the red clamps (positive). Release the hood prop and close the hood. 

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Locate the battery. Some car batteries are not in the motor cavity. In these cases you're going to be looking for a red plastic cylindrical cap with a large + sign on it. This is a jump post for the battery. These jump posts can be in a variety of locations depending on the make and model of your vehicle, but most manufacturers place them in conspicuous places for occasions such as this. If all else fails, refer to your owner manual.

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

Locate the battery. Some car batteries are not in the motor cavity. In these cases you're going to be looking for a red plastic cylindrical cap with a large + sign on it. This is a jump post for the battery. These jump posts can be in a variety of locations depending on the make and model of your vehicle, but most manufacturers place them in conspicuous places for occasions such as this. If all else fails, refer to your owner manual.

Remove the plastic jump post caps by lifting them off by hand. You may also see a similar looking black cap with a - insignia on it for the negative jump post. If not, you can use the frame of the car. If the battery is in the motor cavity, you can attach the jump pack directly to it.

Ensure the jump pack power switch is in the off position. Attach the red positive alligator clip of the jump pack to the red positive battery terminal or jump post. Attach the black negative alligator clip to a non moving metal part of the car away from the battery, but within reach of the battery jump pack. A part of the frame would be okay, but do not attach to the painted fender. If you have a jump post option for the negative terminal, you can attach the black negative clamp to that.

Locate the power button on the jump pack and turn your head away from the jump pack and battery when you turn it on. This is a safety precaution as batteries have hydrogen gas and lead acid inside them. The hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can explode in certain circumstances. By connecting the black negative clamp to a metal ground and not directly to the battery, you have diminished this risk.

Check to make sure the jump pack itself and the cables are not going to interfere with moving engine parts. Go to the car and turn the ignition on and try to start. If the vehicle starts, go directly to the jump pack and turn the power switch to off. Disconnect the negative clamp first and then the positive. If the vehicle does not start, you'll need to shut the power switch of the jump pack off and try to reconnect following the same procedures. A lot of battery corrosion can prohibit a good connection from the jump pack to the battery. Digging the alligator clip into the soft lead compound of the positive terminal with the power switch of the jump pack off might be a way to get a cleaner connection in a hurry. Allow the jump pack to cool down for a couple of minutes in between non-successful start-ups

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4809390_use-jump-starter.html

If it does not start, turn their car off and re-position the cables until you have success. If the car will not start after a couple attempts, it is time to call for help.

DO NOT SHUT OFF YOUR CAR RIGHT AFTER YOU GET YOUR BATTERY JUMPED. It does not have enough charge to restart the car. If you have to, drive around for about 20 minutes before turning it off. 

Then check your fluids

Fluids should generally be checked when the car/engine is not hot. First, open your hood and secure it with the hood prop. When finished checking your fluids, close your hood carefully. 

Washer fluid: This is used to clean the windshield of any debris/smudges that may affect driving. Make sure it is alcohol based, especially in the winter, so it works correctly and doesn't freeze and break the tank. The tank is usually white with a windshield/water symbol on top of the cap. There may be another tank for a rear wiper. You can easily see into the tank; check for blue liquid. If it is low, carefully pour the new fluid into the tank and close it.

Antifreeze: This is used to regulate the temperature in your cooling/heating system. The container is white and usually has a cap that says coolant or engine coolant on it. There is also a MAX and MIN line to look for. You can use water in a pinch, but just like washer fluid tanks, you don't want them to freeze in the winter. Add the appropriate amount carefully and close it. 

Since, winter will be coming, you'll want to have de-icer handy and have antifreeze in the coolant tank instead of water.


Checking oil: There is a dipstick that is usually brightly colored and may sometimes have a handle. It might have a picture of an oil can (like the light in your car). Make sure it does not say Transmission Oil. Pull the dipstick out and wipe the whole stick on a clean towel or paper towel and replace it. Take the stick out again and look at the markings, high or low. Keep an eye on the color too. If it is an amber clear color, this is healthy oil. If it is darker brown or black, you will need an oil change soon. If the oil is very low, you may need to top off the oil. Find what type you need in the manual or in stores. (There is usually a book). If the oil comes out with any coloring other than a transparent one, take it to a shop.

Checking brake fluid: This is used to keep the brake system working smoothly. The tank is white; the cap has a yellow octagon with a circle and two lines around it, some may say brake fluid. There are also a MAX/MIN lines on the tank. If the fluid is low, top it off with the appropriate brake fluid. If you notice a significant amount of loss, there may be a leak. Take it to a shop to sort it out.

Tires are next:

It is important to have a good tread on your tire to maintain traction on the road. If the tread is balding, or getting close to the indicators on the tire, it is time to replace the tire(s). This is especially important for driving in the rain, on wet leaves and in the snow.

You will also want to make sure your spare tire is properly inflated. You don't want to find out the hard way. The spare tire is generally located in the trunk under the trunk mat, on the back door or under the back of the car. Also make sure the fully functional jack is in place with it. Your manual will have the location and parts associated with it. 

It is very important to check the tire pressure on all tires. This can help with gas mileage and to avoid a flat. You can find how much pressure you need in the tire on the sidewall of the tire, close to the rim. It can be listed on a sticker in your door jam or the manual as well. Always check before inflating your tires. A spare tire may require more air pressure than a normal tire; the average PSI (pounds per square inch) is between 28 and 32 pounds. A tire pressure gauge will be able to measure this for you. They run around $10 and can be found at an auto store.

To put air in the tires, take the valve stem cap off and check with the tire gauge. The number you see is what the PSI is now. Attach the air pump to the valve stem and push the air in in spurts. Keep checking the PSI on your gauge, so you don't over inflate. If you happen to over inflate, take something like a pen and push in the valve stem until some air comes out.

Also, make sure you get proper alignments and rotations to ensure a longer life for your tires.

Replacing a tire: First you will need to turn off your car and make sure it is in park on a flat surface. Try to stay out of the way of traffic and put your hazards on. Then locate your spare tire and jack. Now you will need to loosen the lug nuts, by turning clockwise, with the tire iron (generally a cross shape). Keep them on the wheel until the car is jacked up. 

The manual will be able to tell you where to place the jack under the car to ensure safety. Placing it in the wrong location can cause damage to your car, yourself and anyone involved. 

 

Jack the car up slowly until the tire is clear of the ground. Finish removing the lug nuts and place them in safe location. Pull the tire off and replace with the spare. Make sure the tire is all lined up with where the lug nuts go and put the lug nuts on. Tighten them with the tire iron until the wheel is snug, but functional. Lower the jack now and triple check the tightness of the lug nuts. You don;'t want your wheel to fall off! Remember to drive carefully with the spare tire and get a new tire ASAP.

Then checking on the auto glass and wiper blades:

You will want to make sure the wipers have no dry rotting or malfunctions. This can easily be checked the next time you use your wiper blades. If the wipers aren't flush with the windshield or there are signs of malfunction, then it's time to switch them out. 

When you go to the store to buy wiper blades, there is usually a book explaining the size(s) you need for your type of vehicle. Buy whichever wipers you find suitable. 

To start, you will need to put your mounts in a fixed position (much like when it is about to snow)and pull the old wipers off. There is usually a tab on the underside of the wiper, push that in to pull them off. Get the new wipers, find the ends that line up and place them on in the same fashion that you took them off. Make sure it is secured, straight and tight. Lower them carefully back on the windshield. It may be easier to find a video or the diagram on the packaging to aide you. 

This is a good time to check the defrost for the future!



Cleaning auto glass: Keeping your auto glass clean, windows and windshields, is important to keeping clear visibility. It is best not to use a trigger spray, as they streak too much. Foam cleaners and microfiber cloths work best for a streak free clean. You can do both inside and outside windows with this method.



Changing an air filter: You only need a new air filter (about $10), a couple tools and 10 minutes to swap this out. You will want to change this out about every year or 12-25,000 miles. Having a clean air filter helps with gas mileage and engine performance. Having dust and debris in your engine is not optimal. Your manual will be able to tell you the type you need. You can always spray some compressed air into the filter to extend the life of it.

 Start with a cooled down car, then open the hood and secure with the hood prop. Look to the top of the engine, it is usually enclosed in a large plastic box and has some metal clips. Use a flat head screw driver or a butter knife to pop them off carefully, then unscrew any screws. Make a note of which way the filter is set in the casing and remove. Place the new one in exactly as the old filter was, screw the top back on and place the metal clips back. If the housing is visibly dirty, you can wipe it out. 

Now check your lights:

This is for inside lights and headlights. Your manual will tell you what type of bulbs you need for both

Headlights: Start with a cooled down car, pop the hood and secure with the hood prop. Locate the correct headlight and find the back of it. There will be a plug with three wires coming out. Carefully pull the clip, unscrew or carefully push the catch (depending on your type of car).Remove the old bulb and replace the new one. Try not to touch the new bulbs glass. Replace the wiring the same way you took it out and test the headlights. If the headlight is still out, you may have a separate electrical issue that a shop can help you with. 

Inside lights: The housing for the lights are located on the ceiling of the car and/or the door edges. There are snap on types that can be taken out with a flat head screwdriver or screw types that require a screw driver. Remove the old bulb and replace with the new one, try not to touch the light bulbs with bare hands. Replace the housing the same way you took it off and check if it works. If the light is still out, you may have a separate electrical issue that a shop can help you with. 

Here are a few extra tips to ensure a smooth year:

• It's a really good idea to keep an emergency kit in our car, like this one here.
  
• Make sure you keep up with your scheduled maintenance for your car, especially before sending them away with the car! This includes getting any dash lights, especially the check engine light.
  
• Get the registration and inspection done before they go.
  
• Also, check on the brakes, hoses and any wear and tear parts that can go bad over the school year, since your student may not have time or think about getting the car fixed between classes.
  
• Remind them (and yourself) to have a good amount of gas in the car, just in case you're running late or have an emergency.