What to pack in your emergency safety car kit!

Everyone should have this kit, even those with brand new cars and road side assistance! 

Emergency car kit

Just because you have AAA, doesn't mean you don't need a safety kit. If your phone is dead, has no reception or they can't get out to you for a while, this kit can help you!

Multi-tool: These tools have a concealed knife to cut seat belts and a pointed metal end to break glass. Make sure you get one that has tools which also come in handy. Or buy a separate multi-use pocket knife.







 
Jumper cables: These should be about 10 feet long. Most people do not carry these, so you could use them to help yourself or others. Learn how to use them in our blog about DIY maintenance!






Fire extinguisher: For class B and C fires (these are for flammable liquids and electric fires). These are very common in car fires and contain specific chemicals in the extinguisher for these types of fires.








First aid kit: (With warming blanket) This should include bandages, scissors, gauze, antiseptic wipes and/or hand sanitizer,  triple antibiotic ointment, asprin or ibuprofin, allergy medicine for example. Plus anything specific to your family's health (prescription, epi-pens, etc).







Flares or reflective cones: This is extremely important is poorly lit areas. This way people can see you to help you and also to avoid further injury or accidents from passing cars.

Tire pressure gauge

Foot pump for tires

Tire gauge and/or mini foot air pump: These might be a little harder to use, but the foot pumps do not require electricity for use and will get the job done. The tire gauge will help you to avoid over/under inflation of your tires.

Portable tire jack

Spare tire with jack: This can save a lot of time, instead of waiting for someone to change it. It's especially useful if the car is in a dangerous/high traffic area. Makes sure the jack and tire are in good working condition occasionally.






Portable cell phone charger: One that can be plugged into the car and/or pre-charged ones that do not need another electric source to charge. Having a fully charged phone every time you go out is also helpful; being able to call for help could be a difference of being stranded for a few hours vs days. However, you can't always rely on your cell phone as a safety tool in emergencies. They often die and sometimes can't get service.






Ice scraper/snow shovel: For quickly getting visibility and digging yourself out, if need be.

Sandy cat litter

Cat litter: Works to absorb liquids spilled or mud for getting un-stuck. It provides traction and can also be a good for added weight in a rear wheel vehicle.





Warm gloves/clothing: Should be water proof, in case you need to change a tire or just keep warm if stranded.


Flash light: And not just the one on your cell phone. Pack extra batteries with it.




Non perishable snacks and water: Something like granola bars, nuts, jerky and food that will keep your energy up if needed. There is also a thing called "Life-straw" which was invented for people in third world countries with poor water supply. This straw allows a person to drink unclean/contaminated water by filtering through the straw. But they are readily available online for a reasonable price with an unlimited shelf life.

AAA or roadside assistance: Even though they may not be able to get to you due to inclement weather or unknown location, they are usually pretty good with timing and are extremely helpful. Insurance companies offer this in their policies.

Bug spray, sunblock, plastic bags, a real blanket, matches/lighter, duck tape, tarp, toilet paper, extra fluids (washer fluid, antifreeze and oil), a funnel and some rags are also great to keep handy. They also sell 'roadside emergency kits' in stores and online; you can always add to pre-made ones.

This might seem like a lot, but being prepared could save lives!

What to do after an accident.

Do you know what to do immediately following an accident and the steps to take care of yourself and your car?

Let Medford Auto Body help you out!

Firstly NEVER LEAVE THE SCENE OF AN ACCIDENT! You could be charged with a hit and run and many other serious offenses.

Next, check on your health and anyone else involved. If you feel serious neck and/or back pain, stay put. If not and it's safe, check on the others involved. If the scene is hazardous, fluids leaking, fires, etc, get to safety immediately.

Next, call the police if someone hasn't already. The officer(s) will ask for your insurance information, registration and license of any drivers involved. They will then compile the information into a police or crash report and issue any violations needed. The police or crash report will be available about a week after the accident.

EXCHANGING INFORMATION

While waiting for the police to arrive, exchange information with other drivers, if any are involved. This includes insurance information, names, numbers, policy numbers, etc. Remember, even if it was your fault, do not accept fault to anyone involved. That is for the insurance companies and police officers to decide. This is a good time to talk to any witnesses and see what they saw. This is also a great time to take pictures of your car, any other vehicles, property damage and if there are any injuries. This could be great, especially if there is any other damage done to the vehicle between the accident and an insurance appraiser.

If anyone is hurt, the police will call an ambulance and tow trucks if necessary. They will asses the scene to see if it's safe and if there are any injuries that need tending to. If any vehicles have to be towed away, the police will most likely need you to get a tow release before you can get your car to a repair shop.

Here are a few things to check for to see if the car is safe to drive: All lights must be in good working condition, no fluids should be leaking, nothing should be touching the tires in any direction, tires must be fully inflated, no smoke is coming from the car, if you feel unfit to drive, if there is airbag deployment and if electrical problems are present. Clearly is the car was in a serious accident, do not attempt to drive it.



Call your insurance company and explain, in detail, what happened. They will then explain the process to you and set you up with a rental, if you have the coverage. The insurance companies can not tell you what shop to use. They may suggest a reliable shop however. If the car needs to be towed, the insurance company will arrange a tow from the tow yard it is in to the repair shop to be fixed.



If the accident was a hit and run, call the police right away. Try to remember, if possible, any information about the car and driver. After everything with the police is settled, call your insurance company. Hit and run accidents are a 'no fault' accident and will not count against you.



If there are any visits for injuries, tell the insurance company too. If the accident is not your fault, your insurance company will be able to tell you and help you get payment from them. If it was clear who was at fault, you may be able to go through the other person's insurance company directly. They will set you up with an appraiser and possibly rental car. The finances and any injuries will be taken care of by them as well.

ADJUSTER WRITING AN ESTIMATE

The next step is someone to asses your car. Whichever insurance company you use will send an adjuster or appraiser out to thoroughly estimate the damage on the vehicle. They will produce you with the estimate, as well as the repair shop of your choice and the insurance company. If the car is drivable, it may be easier to choose a soon, but convenient time for you. If the car is non drivable it will most likely be fixed right away.






Sometimes the insurance company will total the car if the damage is more than the car is worth. Factors in this can/will be the value of the car, rental charges, custom upgrades, fees for a new car and car loans. The car loans will be payed off first with the amount the insurance company decides to pay out for the car. The remaining is left to the owner of the vehicle. The car is usually sold for scraps, which the insurance company keeps the money for.

If you decide you want to keep the totaled car, there are a few options. This can only happen if they think the car will be safe to drive. Remember, just because it is declared a total loss does not mean it can not be repaired. Some totaled cars do not look like what you would expect. You still have to pay the deductible for the loss and you may not get back everything you originally paid for the vehicle. It is face value now.

SAMPLE SALVAGE TITLE

If you and the insurance company decide together that you can buy back the car with a salvage title, you will then receive the remaining payment. Deductions will be taken from the payout you would get, including any scrap money they would have gotten for your car, the deductible, any fees for the salvage title and any other fees involved. Then you will need to pay for the repairs to the car on your own. It is usually a better bet to just accept the payout and get a different, safer car. Some people keep the car to scrap or donate it.

The title can read salvage, flood or reconstructed. This can be hard to resell or trade in. A salvage title can also be from weather, fire, stolen, vandalism or accident. This is also good to remember when you are buying a car too.



The car will then be repaired at the shop of choice.

How to prevent rust and corrosion on your vehicle

Do you know the types of rust and corrosion and how to avoid and fix them?  Let us guide you!

 

RUST

Rust is iron oxide, which happens when any type of iron mixes with oxygen. A lot of frames on cars are made of steel, which is a mix of iron, carbon and sometimes other less expensive, lighter metals. Although iron is the only type of metal to rust, other types of metal corrode, which is very similar. Pure iron does not rust as fast, the alloy (mixture of metals) metals break it down faster. But they are lighter, which is better for your car being stronger, better on gas and more flexible.

CORROSION

Corrosion is for other metals, such as copper, tin, bronze, gold etc. This happens, also, when these metals mix with oxygen. These metals are mainly used in wiring and springs in vehicles.

Most of these metals will corrode or rust eventually. This can lead to weakening of the metals and alter their structure and performance. But, you can use cleaners to rid some of the rusting. However, that does not make the metals stronger or restore them to their original quality.

Rust can happen in a number of ways.

SURFACE RUST

The first being "surface rust": This is on the car paint that may have been scratched or cracked. When the sun, salt and/or water get to these chips, they speed up the rusting process. To avoid this from happening, try to keep the paint touched up and buffed. Adding an anti-rust sealer can only help. But if it does happen, use a small wire brush to rid the area of the rust, add some touch up paint, clear coat and a buff. It should be good as new.

SCALE RUST

 "Scale rust": This is usually brought onto exposed iron that comes in contact with salt and water. It's basically just an environmental factor. People that live in colder climates, generally with snow and rock salt, will have cars that rust faster. As well as people who live near the ocean. This is also a more serious type of rust. It is generally larger, has bubbles, flakes or pits (dents). The visible rust needs to be scraped away or wire brushed to prevent any further damage. Then it must be sanded down, primed, painted, clear coated and buffed.

 

 

 

 

 

PENETRATING FRAME RUST

"Penetrating rust": This rust has been oxidizing for quite a while. It will become very weak and have holes in the rusted part. This is generally in areas you would not see often, like the frame or parts under the car. There is no quick fix to this problem. You can either replace the entire part or cut out the affected parts and weld new pieces in. If you are unsure of what you're doing, take it to a professional body shop. They will be able to fix it safely for you, without compromising the integrity of the previously rusted area.

Luckily, nowadays most cars are manufactured better than they used to. Older cars rusted much faster and easier. But just because they are newer, doesn't mean there couldn't be an issue. Toyota recently had a frame rusting recall on fairly newer models. But, the manufacturers are trying to avoid and prevent rust more actively. They have been introducing other, less likely to corrode, metals to the process; such as magnesium. However, they are pricey and used sparsely. There are other ways to ward off rust though. Anti-rust dips are being done to car parts before paint, thicker walled sheet metal and extra anti-rust coatings under the car and frame. These definitely delay rusting, but it is always a good idea to check out your car and keep an eye on any spots that look troublesome. Another way to prevent rust at home is to make sure the vehicle is clean, especially after being in a salty area. And any drain holes that are visible should be cleaned out every so often with pipe cleaners or tiny wire brushes.

When buying an older car, check the whole car top and bottom for rust. If there is visibly rust to the frame or shocks that you are thinking about buying, it might be best not to. As it can pose a serious safety issue and costly. Parts of the frame can break and might cause more damage in an accident. Also, if there is rust present on or near the break and gas lines, they can be very expensive to replace and are very dangerous.

TSB (Technical Service Bulletins) VS Recalls

 Do you know the difference between a TSB and a recall? 

Let Medford Auto Body help you!

A TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) is a document sent out by the car manufacturer to the dealers and sometimes the owners of the vehicle. They detail any issues the vehicle may encounter after it has been released. They can be related to anything from a safety issue to a faulty door handle. Some cars have more than others. While the bulletins can outline some safety issues, generally recalls are used for serious safety hazards.

Dealers: They help the dealers or repair shops out by explaining the problem, the repair and/or parts needed. They can also let them know about any changes to maintenance changes or procedures.

Customers: For customers, this can save you money down the road. Say your vehicle needed new tires prematurely. Then you see a TSB about abnormal tire repair, allowing an extended warranty for the specified problem, you could then send in your receipt for repairs and potentially be reimbursed. However, the repair is not always covered by the dealers.

The TSB can be a very valuable tool when preparing to purchase a car. They can kind of alert you to potential problems and expenses down the road. It could possibly help negotiate the price or request the problem be fixed before purchasing the car.


Some manufacturers will send the vehicle owner, directly, the TSB outlining what is wrong and how the dealers will help you fix it. For example, 2006-2009 Honda Civics were issued a TSB about the engine block overheating and making the car un-driveable. While this does seem like a serious safety issue, Honda sent the TSB and replaced any engine blocks that had the issue free of charge. But not every car has the same problems. However, if the issue were to get out of hand and cause serious health problems or death in vehicle owners, the vehicle will probably be recalled. Take the 2003-2007 GM vehicles (a few different models), the vehicles were randomly and suddenly shutting off due to a faulty ignition switch. This caused several fatalities and was turned from a TSB to a recall.



While some manufacturers are nice enough to send the TSB to your house (file them away for future use if not needed now), others are not. There are a few ways to go about getting a TSB on your vehicle though: 

• Repair shops or dealers have access
• Websites and car forums online
• Independent companies will sell them
• The NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Admin) has them for free by mail

They are a bit easier to get now, with the internet having almost immediate access to almost any information. If any are sent to your house or you see them online, file them away or bookmark them for possible future use. And of course, save any receipts for work done or parts purchased. Not only will this help you get reimbursed later on, if needed,  but it will also come in handy if you plan to sell your car.

  

 

Recalls are just like TSBs, but are concerned with more dangerous safety issues. Just like some TSBs, the recalls are sent, first to the dealers and second to the vehicle owner. You can always check online for recalls on your vehicle. If you find that your car is recalled, take it to or call the dealer as soon as possible. Also, if you find that you think something should be recalled on the car and are experiencing serious car troubles, you can always take it to the dealer/shop. Save all your receipts for repairs for TSB and recalls. You could be reimbursed down the road.

 

The manufacturers are required to pay for any work done for a recall. Sometimes they even put out a recall before they are forced to. The NHTSA will gather information and reports about all vehicles and if there is enough of the same problem, they will go public and force a recall if one has not been made already. So, it can't hurt to make a claim or report serious issues. It could help save lives down the road.

Recalls are very serious, as the vehicle is being recalled because you could be put in serious danger or be killed while in the car.

The truth about car dealerships!

What you need to know about leasing, trade ins and buying a new car at a dealership!

Leased cars: This is a car that is financed through monthly payments with a car dealership's bank and allows the lessee to only pay a portion of the entire price. The length is about 3 years, but can vary either way. It is a brand new car with a warranty and is great for people who don't drive too far or too much. The lease is determined by miles driven and/or a number of years.


This car is basically like buying your own new car but you get to return it before it's too much work! The wear and tear on tires and fluids need to be replaced by the lessee. Also, if the car is involved in an accident of some sort, the lessee is also responsible for choosing  a shop and getting the car repaired. However, no major upgrades or changes are allowed. The car will come with a warranty though, like any other new car, which should be the length of the lease. Any time over that may become more expensive with upkeep. It might be a smart idea to purchase GAP insurance (which covers the remaining amount, after your insurance company pays, if a car were to be totaled soon after purchasing or leased). The insurance companies do not always give full value or close to what you paid for the car due to the quick depreciation of cars.

Areas bigger than a credit card may cost you.

Upon returning the car to the bank (first it is taken back to any dealership under the same name), the bank will conduct an inspection on the condition of the car. They allot a certain amount of money for minor damages to the car, generally small scrapes or the usual wear and tear. While some may be lenient with the wear and tear, others may be very uptight and count every single scratch. This is why requesting an early inspection from the bank, if there are questionable spots, is a good idea. This will allow time to get the car repaired before being charged.


The bank generally is only concerned with the car being in good working condition. This means, for example, they aren't concerned with different tires than it started with. The car is then sold, sometimes back to the original dealer you purchased it from, as used. The bank will allow the dealership that leased the car to have first dibs on buying it back to sell in their lot. Sometimes there's a lease to own option though. The contract for the lease will show the remaining dollar amount on the car and is usually a pretty good deal for a newer car.The mileage is also checked to make sure the amount agreed upon is at or under the limit. Over mileage can cost up to 25 cents per mile.


Leases are great for some people, specifically if the person driving the car doesn't drive often or many miles, enjoys new cars often or do not care to maintain a vehicle for a number of years after it is considered new. But for people who drive a lot or long distances, leasing a car is not the best option.



 
Trade-ins: These are cars people 'trade in' to add to or use for a down payment on a new car. They are not determined by pricing on websites like Kelly Blue Book, they go by what people will pay for each car. This can be upsetting for people who believe they are getting what the value says online. The dealerships use stats to know what people will pay for each car, then consider how much they want to make on the car.





Car Fax/Vehicle History Reports: The facts come from estimate systems used by repair shops and insurance companies. Car Fax will buy information about the VIN number (not personal information) from those companies. They tell if there was any auto body damage, for example.

Dealerships will use a clean Car Fax to jack the price up of a car for sale and lower the worth of a trade in value with an unclean Car Fax. It will tell you how many owners the car had, if there was damage with a reported accident, type of usage, any type of damage and if the car was salvaged, junked or a lemon.

Labor is listed as auto body damage or work.

Frame work will list as auto frame damage.

Airbag sensor damage will list as airbag damage. 

This information is taken without knowing the situations of each car and may not be as bad as they seem on paper. But sometimes it is exactly what happens. Then there are times when the damage isn't written in these systems or reported to the insurance companies. There can be damage or minor work done without realizing it. But sometimes there is a big dent in your car with a clean Car Fax. So while this is a good source to use while buying a car, it may not always be accurate.



Buying cars: This can be anywhere from a brand new car to buying an older car in the back of the lot. The older cars are other people's trade ins, which is why you may see a Nissan at a Honda dealership.

Check for a Vehicle History Report on any car being purchased; usually the dealership will have them. While they are not always accurate, they are still helpful. Check for a warranty for peace of mind too. The older models probably won't have one, but if you really want one, dealerships offer a warranty for a fee and aren't as inclusive as new warranties.

Then obviously, the more you put as a down payment, the less your payments will be a month. Also, for financing a car, the insurance on the vehicle must be full coverage. It also can't hurt to try and get the payments as low as possible. A few minutes of haggling can save you hundred of dollars in the long run.

There are also some 'dealership options' available when purchasing a vehicle. Some are good, like a bumper to bumper warranty and others are almost a gimmick, like fabric protection that costs them next to nothing. So be wary of them trying to take advantage.

Tips for driving defensively!

I know we have all heard this before... Generally from the insurance company or driving schools. If you have or haven't taken a class or just need a refresher; here are some useful tips for the road!

There are many dangers on the road between bad weather, damaged roads, bad drivers, stray animals or pedestrians. Many of these can not be helped. But bad drivers, although their actions can not be controlled, you may be able to avoid an accident by driving defensively.

Stay attentive and alert: This means no sleepy driving, no using electronics, making sure your passengers are not bothering you, no drugs or alcohol prior to or while driving, etc.

Pay attention: To your surroundings, your car and other drivers. Take notice of patterns of other drivers and you may even be able to predict their next, possibly careless, move. By paying attention to them, you can give yourself some time if it seems like the person might cut you off and cause an accident.

Check your mirrors

Remember what your mirrors are for... checking on others cars and objects. Keep an eye on how far or close they are to you, especially while stopped. Other drivers may not notice you're stopped and hit you. Don't assume anything from other drivers!

Always be on the look out for people under the influence. If there are people driving noticeably slow and swerving, avoid these people at all costs. Go a different route or pass them. If they seem especially reckless, pull over and phone the police.

 

Driving while tired can have the same effect as a drunk driver. Get yourself some coffee, some form of caffeine or maybe something small to munch on to keep you alert. If you notice, as a passenger, that the driver is falling asleep offer to drive if you can or pull over.

Always look ahead: That means not just the car in front of you, but all the cars in front of you. If you notice a car or cars that are braking and the person in front of you does not, you should know to start braking to. The person in front of you may not be paying attention.




Avoid road rage: Driving can be maddening at times, but trying to stay calm and keep a clear head can really do wonders for your driving record. Also, driving in a rush and tailgating people may only hurt you in the end. Generally, the car that has been rear ended is not at fault. So that can leave you with a ticket, points on your license, increased insurance premiums and/or a possible lawsuit. None of that seems worth it. Try to keep a car or two's length in between yourself and the cars in front of you. Driving fast poses the same hazardous as very slow drivers.
 


Have a plan: If you do find yourself in a possible accident, always check for an escape route. You should look to your sides to see if there's a clear path or lane to move. But do not accidentally drive into oncoming traffic. Swerving is also an option too, if clear.

Blind spots

Try not to be in another car's blind spot. Either speed up or slow down, they might not double check to see if its safe before making a move and side swipe you.

Keep these in mind: You must remember that, although driving a car is very normal to most people, it is still tons of metal that can seriously injure or kill yourself or others. The car should be thought of as a weapon, used with caution and care.

Buckle up!

  

Wear your seat belt!

Drive the speed limit!

Always use turn signals! 

Check for working head/tail lamps!

And in bad weather, everything needs to be slowed down immensely. Check out this blog to learn more on how to drive in inclement weather.

Safe winter driving tips!

Here are a few key tips for snow/ice driving:

•  Do not use cruise control when driving on any slippery surface (wet, ice, leaves, sand). It can be harder to control the car if you need a quick stop.

• Make sure all the snow is cleared off the whole car, including the roof and tail lights!!
• Check to make sure your headlights are on while driving in the snow and rain.
• Make sure you have weatherized antifreeze and wind shield washer fluid, not water. It can freeze and break the tank.

• Always wear your seat belt.
• Be wary of plows and salt trucks while driving. Remember, the roads behind them are much safer than those in front. They are plowing for a reason.
• Remember too that the speed limits may not apply if the roads are bad. It's safer to go slower.
• It's easier to drive slower than to have to break often, which causes spin outs and sliding.
   
• STAY OFF THE CELLPHONE while driving, especially in bad weather!

 


 
How to get out of a slide or 'fishtail":

You can be pulled over for this.

First, try to drive below 45 MPH to avoid this, but if it does happen, here are a few pointers on how to correct it. As soon as it happens, take your foot off the brake. Your brakes may be locking up and then make the car entirely useless. Then slowly start to slow down and gently turn the steering wheel in the direction your back end is sliding into. Don't go too far or it could cause more sliding and spinning. But if it does happen, turn in the opposite direction lightly. Do these motions without jerking the wheel. It is very scary to slide and spin, but panicked motions will only make it worse. Spins and slides are very hard to get out of, but these tips can help! This is useful for black-ice too.

Specific ice driving:

If you see an accident, try not to stop and help unless of serious danger. It might cause a pileup, so if with someone else, call the authorities who are more knowledgeable and helpful in the situation. 

If you are in an accident on icy roads, it might be best to get out and away from your car. One icy accident is usually sure to bring a few more on. People get panicked, break, slide and crash. Be aware of your surroundings.

For long distance driving in inclement weather:

Make a kit, just in case!

Drive slower than normal and let someone know where you are going and your ETA.  Check the weather report before you go; if you don't need to drive then stay home and safe.

It might be a safe bet to keep sand or kitty litter (traction while getting unstuck), windshield scrapers, jumper cables, blankets, a flashlight, bottled water and dry non-perishable snacks in the car too. This could come in handy in case a big snow storm comes and you are unable to safely drive your car or no one is able to get out and help you if your car breaks down. Also, you don't want to risk exposure trying to walk and find help.

This is visible to rescuers.

If stranded: Stay in your vehicle (if it's safe) with something colorful on the exterior of the car for rescuers to spot easily. While with your vehicle, check that the tail pipe is clear of snow and debris before heating the car; you don't want to accidentally poison yourself trying to keep warm.

Do you know the difference between wheel drives?

All wheel drive (AWD):  The main feature, available for a variety of vehicles, is all the wheels have power to them and can work together or separately for better traction control. There are not many limits to an AWD vehicle; it's great for everyday driving, snow, rain and high performance (Not so much off-roading though). The best part is the vehicle knows when to send power to each wheel, so no participation is needed from the driver. I would say this is your best bet for an all around good vehicle in good and bad weather.

Four wheel drive (4WD): This feature is usually in larger vehicles like pick-ups and SUVs. It works by sending power to only the wheels that need it (in sets of two). All of them can be used, but generally the rear gets most of the power until the front has use for it. The front then gets half the work, which is great for plowing, large amounts of debris (Mud, snow, etc.) and hills. However, when this feature is not needed, its pretty much just a heavy rear wheel drive vehicle with bad gas mileage. So, if you don't have the need for it, it's not worth it. 

Stay behind the plows.

Front wheel drive (FWD): This is most common in modern sedan type cars and crossovers. The front wheels control the car which is a better option that rear wheel drive. They also have better gas mileage and are all around pretty good vehicles in bad weather. Although they are great everyday cars, it's not optimal for high performance and tight driving. It also doesn't help too much that they are lighter cars, which can hinder traction control a bit.


Rear wheel drive (RWD):  This type of wheel drive was standard for most cars. They are lighter cars with better weight distribution, especially for high performance driving and police officers. But in the snow, they are sometimes a mess. 'Fishtailing' and sliding are all too familiar for drivers, especially for pick-up drivers. If you do have a RWD vehicle in the snow, putting extra weight in the back can be useful. These are the worst vehicles for winter driving.

For more information on how to keep safe in busy parking lots during the holidays, check this out!